Lekker

07Oct12

The word lekker is heard often when travelling in South Africa. It’s Afrikaans for very good, enjoyable or tasty. It’s used to describe a delicious meal, as in that was a lekker meal. It may also used as a valediction when saying goodbye as in “have a lekker day”.

I had a very lekker weekend in Coffee Bay, a small village along South Africa’s Wild Coast. Coffee Bay is a Xhosa Village in the Transkei, an area set aside for the Xhosa People during apartheid. Coffee Bay is 100 km down a bumpy dirt road from the nearest paved road. It’s a scenic journey graced by the tiny rondavels, or vernacular residences, that punctuates the endless horizon.

I had a great time staying at Coffee Shack . It’s a very cool place to chill-out for at least a few days. This is one of the best backpacker hostels I’ve stayed at in my travels. The hostel is wonderfully situated just steps from the Indian Ocean. The staff is friendly, helpful and cook some amazing meals. There are daily activities, including hikes, surf lessons and a visit to meet the village Headman and other residents.

I also had the good fortune to meet several South Africans that are working in the Transkei. Two telecommunications electricians who were helping connect this remote area with the rest of South Africa. I also met a creative team working on several environmental projects, including an eco-tourism project and a visionary project called Earth Junkies. These special friends had a big influence on my remaining time in South Africa….

One of the great pleasures of travelling in South Africa is meeting the people and getting a varied perspective on life in this complex nation. I gained important insight into the Apartheid and Post-Apartheid years from my many conversations. Issues with government corruption, lack of leadership and fear and mistrust amongst the different races are areas where South Africa continues to face many challenges. Meeting with the village Headman in Coffee Bay also exposed me to the education and economic issues in the very poor areas of the Transkei. The Headman pointed-out that the increase in government grants was having a negative impact on the villages since many people that were previously self-sufficient farmers had become a bit too reliant on government programs. Still, many people remain optimistic that the next generation can lead this Nation towards a brighter future.

: Potjie consisting of meat and vegetables. Vegetarian potjie was also avaialble

: At Coffee Bay, we were treated to delicious potjie, a traditional strew cooked in a three-legged cast iron pot

: On a very windy day, I tried my hand at surfing. I will have to try it again under less challenging conditions

: A beautiful sunrise at Coffee Bay

: We had the opportunity to visit a Xhosa village. We ate traditional food, asked questions to the headman and danced with the community in a small, round vernacular hut