Swaziland and Zululand

07Oct12

Landlocked between South Africa and Mozambique, the Kingdom of Swaziland became wholly independent of Great Britain in 1968. Relaxed and friendly, Swaziland is a very enjoyable place to unwind for a few days.

It’s worth mentioning that I decided to take public transportation for my first few weeks in South Africa. While it’s not as convenient as renting a car, it’s cheaper, more environmentally friendly and provides opportunities for engaging with the locals. When I reached the port city of Durban, I began travelling on the Baz Bus, a backpacker service running between Johannesburg and Cape Town. I’m excited to try the Baz Bus as it will make getting between destinations along the coast very easy. Incidentally, Baz Bus discontinued its service through Swaziland and near Kruger National Park about 18 months ago. Most of the hostels I’ve stated at over the past week have been very quiet. The absence of the Baz Bus and the continued lethargy of the global economic markets seems to be impacting tourism in these parts.

Since leaving the UK, I’ve not met many Americans. Most of the backpackers I’ve met in South Africa are from Europe, especially Germany, France and England. To get to Swaziland, I caught a ride with a group of German students who recently completed a volunteer assignment at a hospital in Soweto. On a rainy, cool day, we caravanned from Nelspruit to Mbabane, the capital of Swaziland. After a little bit of a miscalculation just short of the border, where we wound up having to pull the rental car out of a gravel-filled runaway truck lane, we regrouped and stopped in Mbabane for lunch. With rain forecast for another 24 hours, my friends decided to continue straight through Swaziland. I stopped in the Ezulwini Valley, the cultural and political heart of the country.

In The Ezulwini Valley,  I visited the National Museum, King Sobhuza II Memorial and the Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. I admire the way King Sobhuza managed Swaziland’s peaceful independence from Great Britain. There does not seem to be the racial tension that exists in nearby South Africa. Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary provided a different wildlife experience  from Kruger National Park. At Mlilwane, you can walk in the landscape with the wild animals. While there are still some dangerous species, including some hippos and crocodiles, it was the perfect Park for a leisurely Sunday stroll. There are several unique lodging types in the park, including a very nice backpacker’s hostel that serves wonderful dinners.

Leaving Swaziland, I caught a ride with a German couple who were going to St Lucia, a wonderful wetlands area in the State of Zwazulu-Natal (Zululand). I was able to take a late afternoon boat tour of the estuary where we saw lots of hippos and many interesting birds. To reach Durban, where I would be getting the Baz Bus, I took two mini-taxis. It took several hours for the taxis to fill. I was happy to be joining the backpacker bus which was sure to make my transportation a whole lot easier for the rest of my time in South Africa.

Late Afternoon on the St Lucia Estuary Tour

The cruise boat returning to dock after our 2 hour scenic tour of the St Lucia estuary

We saw dozens of hippos from the boat on the St Lucia Estuary

Hippos are pretty lethargic during the day, spending much of their time in the water or sleeping on land. At night, the head off to eat, easily covering 20-40 kilometers per night while grazing. Night is when they are most dangerous to humans

Hippos staying cool during the late afternoon on the St Lucia estuary

Our boat guide on the St Lucia estuary was able to bring us to see many different animals

Eagle spotting at St Lucia estuary

Birds have carved nests into the soft cliffs at Mlilwane Wildlife Park

The main rest camp at Mlilwane features a resident hippo that comes uncomfortably close to visitors!

It was great being able to get up close to the zebra

The walk through Mlilwane Wildlife Park

A wide range of lodging options exists at Mlilwane, including these traditional huts. I stayed at hostel within the park, just a 15 minute walk from the main visitor area

One of three “Big Game Parks” managed by the Kingdom of Swaziland

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